b-served Gastronomy
Ovnew, between the land & the skies
A multisensory gastronomy
Jon Giraldo and Jaime Lieberman, formerly of Spoonik have taken on a new gastronomic challenge in Barcelona, to create a fitting cuisine for what must be one of the most spectacular restaurants in Barcelona, in terms of its architecture and location, perched on the top of the 29th floor of the Hesperia Hotel in’Hospitalet de Llobregat. Ovnew occupies a space between the ground and the skies, a place untethered from Barcelona, and the menu reflects this otherness. Ovnew mixes performance art, gastronomy, architecture, sound, olfactory sensations etc, structured within a setting that is inspired by Gaia, or Mother Earth.
The space which was formerly occupied by Evo, the restaurant managed by the late great chef Santi Santamaría is now entirely re-imagined with a significant refurbishment that includes a state-of-the art Led light system and 3-D audio installation. Planting and opaque roof panels have been added to mitigate against heat gain and the restaurant will only be open in the evenings, for the time being anyway. From the serving staff / performers’ costumes to the tableware, the futuristic furniture and the choreography of the different course everything is carefully and thoughtfully curated at Ovnew. There is a lot to take in here.
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The food offering consists of a celebration of the 5 continents organised in a tasting menu that brings diners on a literal and figurative journey. After arriving in the hotel lobby diners are whisked by lift to the flying saucer like glass dome of the penthouse level of the building (designed by Richard Rogers Partners), with three levels connected by staircase and ramps diners are brought through the lower level kitchen located in the under-croft of the dome to the mezzanine with its Dj both and counter seating. The gastronomic journey celebrates everything to do with the world of vegetables (although there are several meat and fish dishes) expressed through the cuisines of the 5 continents; Asia, Amazonia, Arabia, Gaia and Europe.
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Certain dishes have been inspired by synesthesia, a sort of culinary alchemy where perceptions in one sense are channelled through another. In others the generality of a sprawling and complex continent is translated into a specific dish such as the marmite ‘bikini’ sandwich that represents Ethiopia for example. Or the torrija that represents Spain as one of the 5 different desserts.
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The tasting menu lasts between 2.5 and 3 hours, there are two sittings to choose from, that can be paired with a wine selection or an alcohol free selection of beverages. Seethe web for reservations.
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Portrait of the Ovnew chefs Jon Giraldo y Jaime Lieberman
- Ovnew
- Hotel Hesperia Barcelona Tower
- Avinguda de la Granvia, 144
- 08907 L'Hospitalet de Llobregat, Barcelona
- + 34 93 707 0760
- www.theovnew.com