b-served Gastronomy
Nuara
Seafood, wild fish, paella and grill at the Gastronomic Balcony of the Port Olímpic
The experience at Nuara, a week after our visit, remains vivid. Knowing the origin of its name may induce the link, since it comes from the Catalan verb 'nuar' (to knot), evoking also, due to its connection with the sea, the seafaring language (to tie knots). But it was also memorable for its location, in the renovated and yet to be completed Balcó Gastronòmic of Port Olímpic, with panoramic views of the dock; for the salty aroma brought there by the breeze, the echo of the masts, the light of a clear winter sky. And, no doubt: because of their impeccable attention, and the gastronomic proposal, created by Álex Jiménez and David Noguera, trained at the Escuela Hofmann and third generation of the owner family, with the advice of chef Ismael Alonso, who has worked at El Celler de Can Roca, Mugaritz and Martín Berasategui.
The last creature -for the moment- of Familia Nuri, with 63 years and five descendants (Ca la Nuri, Xiroi, Bar Nuri, Bar Nuri in Time Out Market and Arrozal), tied the knot with its modern and sometimes 'nua' (naked) —raw or little intervened— Mediterranean cuisine, that always respects the essence of the fresh product their handle, from the fish market and the market, as well as with the grill, and selected wines.
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It's a large, diaphanous and ethereal space, designed internally by Raquel González in collaboration with the Sánchez Guisado architecture studio, responsible for projects such as Enigma, Pakta or Glug. A 235 m² terrace precedes the 203 m² dining room, which includes a private dining room for 12 people, and a wine cellar, grill and other culinary equipment in plain view. Good to know: It can be privatized for events and celebrations, and offers 2 hours of free parking at the BSM Litoral Port.
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We tried the Marinated leeks with ceps, hazelnuts and sprouts meunière, a delicious sauce!
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a Balfegó tuna tartar, which never fails, with stracciatella and pistachios,
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and a wonderful Red shrimp paella; Rafa, the maître d', didn't wait to share it out, not to refill the glasses either. To finish, we opted for the Strawberry pavlova and Puff pastry with pineapple, cream and coconut ice cream, and left for next time the Hazelnut coulant with yogurt ice cream and the tasting of artisan cheeses with olive oil jam (from Tierra Trágame, like the EVOO, vinegar, and olives dressed with Provençal herbs that they serve as an appetizer).
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Rice dishes are one of Nuara's specialties -it could not be otherwise for the Nuri family-, and there are also with beef sirloin and Padrón peppers, dry or soupy with national lobster, with organic vegetables, or sea and mountain with squid and Iberian bacon.
Grilled, meats with D. O. and wild fish, with garnish of your choice (French fries, seasonal vegetables, salad, wood-fired peppers). Seasonality is reflected on the first page of the menu, dedicated these days to preparations with calçots.
The bread? From Triticum. Details for detailers? The Aguadé ceramic cutlery rest.
We will come back, of course, to continue tasting, for example, the Large cockles with iodized mollusk juice and crème fraîche, the Battered squids with ceviche-inspired mayo, the Pasta with lobster and red curry, the Suprema Ancestral beef steak or the cheesecake cocktail.
As for the wines, the digital list features more than a hundred, classic and contemporary, "ephemeral" bottles such as the white La Pell and the red Supersónico, a good number by the glass -such as Studio, a rosé from Côtes de Provence-, and some in magnum format, such as the Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut champagne. This is a selection with a special focus on Catalan labels, without neglecting national and international references. Made by the renowned sommelier Xavi Nolla, and Jaume Folguera, with a long career with the family, looking for the values of proximity and sustainability, and with a fondness for organic viticulture. As I am very fan of pansa blanca variety, I chose one of Can Matons-Vins fins d'Alella.
High quality products and delicacy in the dish, the treat and the environment, that is Nuara, the new mooring of Familia Nuri. Get to know it!
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Photos (except pavlova and cheesecake cocktail): ©Santa Helena Agency
- Nuara
- Moll de Gregal, local 11
- 08005 (Sant Martí)
- T. 932 216 704
- Monday-Sunday, 12 midday-1 AM (non-stop kitchen till 11 PM)
- restaurantnuara.com