b-served Gastronomy
Martín Berasategui. Loidi + Fonda España
Like any contemporary and cosmopolitan city Barcelona has a wide range of gastronomy inspired by international cuisine. The influence of regional cuisine however is also noteworthy, how would you describe the influence of your San Sebastián roots on the menus of Loidi and the Hotel España?
My cooking has deep seated roots undoubtedly but I always endeavour to imprint the local character on the food where ever I happen to be, whether that be in the selection of the best products of each region or salvaging the most interesting things of the gastronomic heritage of that place. So in both the menus at Loidi and Hotel España there is definitely the stamp of San Sebastian which is not surprising as many of my recipes are concocted at Lasarte but there are others that have more of a Catalan or Mediterranean feel.
First Michelin Star at 26, three addition stars subsequently. Best Spanish pastry chef of the year in 1995, Best Spanish Chef in 1996, in 1997 you achieved the Grand Prix del Arte de la Cocina. In 1999 you were selected Best Pastry Chef of the Year, in 2001 your career was celebrated at the Salón Internacional del Club de Gourmets (Madrid). In 2005 you were awarded the "Tambor de Oro". Is there are other honour left for you to achieve?
I really appreciate all of the prizes that I have been awarded, it’s an incredible boost for any career but I have a very restless character and I always need to have new challenges of all sorts to confront, they are what life is all about and personally I really enjoy learning and improving, I never loose the passion for my work.
The Basque Country’s gastronomic culture goes far beyond mere food and sustenance, its political and social aspects are unique in Spain and perhaps even the world. What in your opinion are the underlying reasons for its importance to the region?
I think that is due to several factors: cultural, idiosyncratic, evolutionary …. In general it could be said that the Basques live through their food both at home and in restaurants. Almost everything revolves around the dining table and its particular pleasures. We benefit from a rich heritage, excellent ingredients, an undoubtedly privileged geography and I think we have been able to make the most of that. I would also add the mixture of chefs, the will to improve, of knowing about what is going on elsewhere, of learning and improving. Many factors which have played a part.
What other regions have influenced your cuisine and in what specific way?
Many regions and countries. Because of work I travel a lot and I always immerse myself in what is going on abroad. I love going to markets, to see what other professional colleagues are up to and researching, obviously some things are more appealing than others. When I find something that really fascinates me I take it away with me figuratively speaking and later try it out to see how it might be incorporated within our own recipes.
Loidi. Hotel Condes de Barcelona
C. Mallorca, 248-250. T. 93 492 92 92
Fonda España. Hotel España.
C. Sant Pau, 9-11. T. 93 318 17 58