b-served Gastronomy
Malparit, restaurant & tapas
Two concepts in one
Just when you think you’ve seen it all when it comes to tapas restaurants in Barcelona, think again. The recently opened Malparit on c/ Còrsega brings something fresh and innovative to the genre. Malparit is a fascinating tandem, two concepts in one, an informal tapas bar with an open-plan kitchen to the front and a table service restaurant at the rear. There is something immediately familiar about the ambience on arrival, a typical neighbourhood bar, a lively space where conversation flows and food being prepared behind the bar counter. Venture a little further and there’s a totally different ambience, a more formal but lively restaurant area.
Malparit is the fourth and most ambitious project yet from restauranteur Leo Chechelnitzky under the No Hay Mañana umbrella (Babula Bar, Madre Taberna Moderna o Chamako). The location of Malparit is a statement of intent, surrounded by classic restaurants and cocktail bars including Dry Martini and La Gormanda. This area of the Eixample, just off Enric Granados is transforming into a consolidated gastronomic hub, and Malparit is a worthy addition. From the terracee seating on the quiet Street outside to the different dining options, all with a very different personality.
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Malparit offers a dynamic bar menu for informal tapas, the kitchen openx from noon to midnight with uninterrupted cooking. Among the highlights are the triple anchovy gilda, loin of Swordfish or traditional escalivada and Priorat espluguina salad with Cod and Tuna belly from its cold room are the best examples. The fried tapas include fleshy Pork rinds torreznos (from either Soria or Galician aged rubia) or the classic Croquettes (spider-crab or chicken with smoked sardine), as well as other options that are on display uninterruptedly from midday through till midnight.
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The more formal restaurant dining menu includes everything from finger-licking dishes such as Cod ‘a la llauna’, meatballs with cuttlefish, cap i pota or Cod brandade with green beans and Butifarra del perol to whole pieces of fresh fish from the market and premium cuts of beef cooked over the fire and on the grill (also in view), designed to be shared, served with freshly mad side dishes (fried potatoes, potato parmentier, glazed carrots or Roman salad).
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Leo Chechelnitzky (left) with Alredo Rodríguez
Leo has confided in Alfredo Rodríguez to oversee the combined culinary offering, the tapas and more formal dining. Rodríguez was in charge of the kitchen at Babula Bar after training at Le Suquet and Grupo Tragaluz, among other renowned restaurants.
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The interior design reflects the different concepts behind Malparit, the front area is decorated like a typical neighbourhood bar with stainless steel countertops, hand crafted ceramic wall tiles and chequered floors. While the restaurant proper is illuminated by an enormous rooflight that sits over the exposed metal roof trusses. The banquette seating and diner style light fitting create a comfortable and cosy setting.
- Malparit
- C/ Còrsega, 253
- 08036 Barcelona
- www.malparit.com