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Josep Maria Parrado, Cañete

  • © Josep Maria Parrado

Josep Maria Parrado, the driving force behind Cañete keeps a photograph of his father and grandfather at his desk, dressed in impeccable white uniforms, both professional career waiters they inspired Josep to create Cañete (its uniforms pay direct homage) which has over the last 18 months carved out a niche for itself introducing traditional Andalusian cuisine combined with progressive Catalan techniques and local ingredients. Josep Maria Masó is the resident chef and culinary director. From Seville originally Josep recalls his mother’s frustration at not being able to replicate the same flavour of Andalusia’s fritura here in the Catalan capital. “The reason is because the flour is a completely different variety, in the south the flour is derived from chick peas and the temperature of the oil as well as the variety is also key.”

 The influence of the Moors and Northern Africa is still evident in the variety and richness of the tapas/raciones available in Andalusia today (where tapas originated according to many), this communal approach to sharing a meal in a social setting is very popular there, given that this region was occupied for close to eight centuries it’s understandable that this heritage lives on in both customs and food. Andalusia is composed of 8 provinces 5 of which are on the coast, the importance of fish and seafood to the local economy and cuisine is also a factor, traditionally the smaller boats kept close to the coast and caught smaller fish hence the choice of fritura, boquerones, chipirones, etc.

Despite the huge influx of Andalusian immigrants to Barcelona during the 50s and 60s their influence on local gastronomy was confined to the periphery of Barcelona, working class neighbourhoods like Santa Coloma and Badalona where walking into a local bar feels like being transported to an entirely different Spanish region. Cañete is a conscious effort to bring the Andalusian traditions, the elegance and class of a top notch restaurant to the Raval neighbourhood. Josep’s father would say that you can tell a lot about people from the way they eat, the waiter behind the counter has a privileged perspective and contact with all strata of society.  From the initial reservation to the waiter service, the interior design to the layout of the tables (mostly along the bar counter) Cañete offers not just the taste but the ambience of southern Spain but with the focus firmly on the food.

Cañete. C. de la Unió, 17.  T. 93 002 94 25

www.antiguobarorgia.com