b-served Gastronomy
El Sortidor de la Filomena Pagès
History, cuisine, atmosphere and charm
There are not that many places left in Barcelona where the line from the past through to the present day can be so easily traced as at El Sortidor de la Filomena Pagès located in the Poble Sec neighbourhood of the city. Testament to the changing times and fortunes of the Ciudad Condal history is combined with a very contemporary gastronomic offering here. To the various layers of history the most recent is the new direction which the new owners have decided to embark upon; presenting traditional Mediterranean, Catalan and Italian inspired dishes with a modern twist within a space that is without doubt one of the most charming eateries in the entire city. Lídia Aymar, Marc Fité and David Sanmartin fell in love with El Sortidor at first sight and decided to embark on this project in early 2015. The name is a reference to Lidia’s grand mother who became well know during the Civil War era for sharing the provisions which her husband had managed to smuggle into El Port de la Selva (Girona) before being exiled to France.
Originally this restaurant was a providers for ice for the local area (before the general electrification of Barcelona) and the cold rooms are preserved intact, clad in turquoise ceramic tiles. The modernisme era joinery and light fittings together with the façade of double doors with coloured glass opening onto the eponymous square lend an authentic period feel to the space which is a natural extension of the square outside. There is also terrace seating actually on the square.
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The food here is based on quality ingredients, created for sharing, enjoying in company, featuring traditional and Barcelona dishes, using market fresh produce, but with a definite creative and modern approach to the textures and presentation, as explained by the head chef, David Sanmartin. This talented young chef (just 28 years old) trained at Barcelona’s Escuela de Hostelería as well as the on-the-job experience he acquired with Ramón Freixa, here he has put together a menu of main dishes and tapas to suit all tastes.
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Forest asparagus
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Baby broad beans and sausage
Offering a wide selection of traditional recipes featuring eclectic ingredients, which often include an unusual take on familiar textures, or “with a slightly different approach, more laid back, because the idea is that customers are offered dishes which wouldn’t be so easy to make if they were at home.” Some of the stand-outs include; La ensalada de antes (traditional salad) made with 'living' lettuce, pepper, seasonal and homemade pickled tomato (homemade), and "seitotxo" an invention of chef Sanmartin, an homage to the cuisine of the Poble Sec neighbourhood (boqueron with a pickled anchovy taste). The Espárragos del bosque (forest asparagus) presented in a metal receptacle amongst flowers and herbs, so that diners 'pick' them from the earth themselves. Then there is the tuna which is marinated in forest fruits tea. The presentation of the dishes is where the imagination of the chef ins on full display, guaranteed to delight. The Huevos “por estrellar” (mashed eggs with ham) is served in a pestle and mortar so that the customer can combine the various ingredients to their own taste.
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Stuffed aubergine
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Marinated tuna fish
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Duck breast served with quince
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Bread and chocolate
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The facade of the Sortidor de la Filomena Pagès
- Restaurante El Sortidor de la Filomena Pagès
- Pl. del Sortidor, 5 Barcelona
- Tel.: 93 328 44 08
- www.elsortidor.com
- Closed Mondays and Tuesdays