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Carballeira

Galician cuisine in Port Vell

By Brian Gallagher 24.03.16

Some dining experiences in Barcelona involve much more than just the food and the decor of the restaurant but represent a total immersion within a gastronomic culture that draws on all the senses. This is precisely what Carballeira represents, one of the city’s premier sea food restaurants and purveyor of Galician cuisine located in the Port Vell neighbourhood which still evokes the essence of the Mediterranean and a working port, even though these days it’s occupied more by yachts rather than fishing boats. During these times of constant change and dramatic upheaval on Barcelona’s culinary scene it’s reassuring to know that some things remain the same, why change something that has worked exceptionally for almost eight decades? 

Founded in 1944, Carballeira was a venture embarked upon by businessman Mr. Millan and his wife who wanted to provide a restaurant in Barcelona where the best Galician seafood would be served. His first customers, other Galicians like himself, were senior civil servants, military and importers of the time who came regularly attracted by the excellent seafood arriving daily from Galicia. From the beginning Carballerira was considered a benchmark and the first Galician restaurant in the city.

  • Carballeira
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    The renowned Carballeira oysters

    As well as the food the differential factor with Carballeira is the attention to customers, once past the threshold diners are in the hands of a veteran Maitre d’ and professional waiters who achieve efficiency combined with discretion, knowledge with attention and mark a gold standard in service. The interior décor is another reason for visiting, entering Carballeira is like stepping aboard a ship with its maritime lamps, walls clad with ship lap timber and decorative ship’s wheels transport diners directly to the high seas without leaving dry land.

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    The clams served on an iced tray

    The gastronomic offering at Caballeira sees the product take centre stage, its quality is primary. Magnificent specimens of fresh wild fish and the most exquisite seafood that are treated in a simple and unpretentious way to maintain the true essence of the product. A glass display cabinet at the entrance shows the seafood of the day: oysters, barnacles and exotic crayfish. The finest seasonal seafood from the Atlantic, such as the rare sea anemones, red lobster, turbot etc. etc.

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    The cockles harvested directly from the sea

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    The black rice, house special

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    Different types of stew using traditional Spanish recipes

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    As well as delicious rice dishes: served with lobster, black and the popular paella options. In season diners can enjoy the scallops and sea cucumbers, succulent monkfish, turbot or grilled hake. And for the meat lovers there is the T-bone or beef steak.

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    For lovers of rich Spanish cuisine: traditional succulent stews and homemade Galician desserts, such as the Oreja de Fraile (flat crispy sweet pancake) served with anís or the cream filled pastries. An impressive wine list which features albariños and other emblematic Galician wines.

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    Nowadays Caballeira is managed by different owners but the foundation of its cuisine remain the same; premier quality produce, fresh seafood imported daily from Galicia, and excellent service. And although Mr. Millan is long retired he still waits to greet regular customers at the entrance with his portrait taking pride of place next to the reception desk. A restaurant that deserves to be rediscovered or simply discovered for lovers of fine dining.

  • Carballeira
  • From Monday through Sunday
    Uninterrupted kitchen service from 1 PM till 12 midnight
    (no set menu lunch)

    C/ Reina Cristina, 3.
    08003 Barcelona.
    93 310 10 06 / 93 310 53 92
  • www.carballeira.com